I own a two-bedroom condo that is about 900 square feet. It was built in 1986. My unit is an end unit, with no unit above it, but a neighbor to my left with one shared wall. I believe I have double- paned windows, although several of the windows may be leaking. Rather than replace costly windows, I am considering wooden shutter coverings. My condo stays very cool in the summer; unfortunately, it stays very cool in the winter, too. How can I warm it up? Is it likely a lack of insulation in the upper crawl space or leakage from the windows? I also have a manufactured wood floor on a concrete floor throughout the condo.
A properly designed furnace/air-conditioning system will have the supply registers on the floor near a window or exterior door. In addition, each room, with the exception of the kitchen and bathrooms, will have a cold-air return register located on the opposite side of the room high up on the wall. This design will balance air circulation throughout the whole house.
If, as you suggest, the attic is underinsulated, then it would be the heated air, not cool air, that would escape in the winter. It is important for the attic to be sufficiently insulated with a thermal barrier to prevent heat intrusion in the summer and the escape of cool air in the summer.
The biggest problem I often see is not just the lack of insulation, but also air leaks at windows, doors, plumbing pipes, electric panels, etc. Any opening, no matter how small and which is exposed to the attic, crawlspace, basement or attached garage, is an opening to the outside.
Most insulating materials are thermal barriers, which do little to prevent air intrusion. Unconditioned air that passes over or through the insulation means you have to expend more energy to heat or cool the home because of all the air leaks.
For these small openings, an expanding foam insulation, available at home and hardware stores, can be easily applied by homeowners. It is important to read and understand just where and how to apply the foam insulation and to wear protective clothing and rubber gloves. This stuff sticks like glue and can harm your skin.
Also understand that once you start to apply the foam, all the contents of the can will ooze out the applicator tip. The windows and doors should be sealed using a silicone caulking on the exterior and on the interior. Where the doors meet jambs and at the doors’ thresholds, weather strips of varying size and shape can be installed to stop air leaks.
I do not know of a shutter that would insulate or be an air barrier, however, there are temporary interior storm windows made of clear plastic sheathing that can be applied to prevent air leaks.
For cold wood or tile floors, rugs or carpets will help keep your feet warm.
Evansville resident C. Dwight Barnett is a Master Inspector and is certified by the American Society of Home Inspectors. Write him at C. Dwight Barnett, Courier & Press, P.O. Box 268, Evansville, IN. 47702, or e-mail d.barnett@insightbb.com. Please include a self-addressed, stamped envelope with your questions.
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